기본 콘텐츠로 건너뛰기

Replace the ASROCK motherboard graphics card latch

https://m.blog.naver.com/dongtancom/223347418953




Aslock X670E STEEL LEGEND Motherboard Graphics Card Clasp Shape.

 

 

 

The first graphic card slot stopper (pictured right) was received damaged while the customer was removing it and the second graphic card slot is a normal stopper (clasp). I was asked to move the stopper of the second graphic card socket to the first, so I tried to replace the clasp. (This computer is CPU 7800X 3D defective, so we are currently wearing it in the center. I don't think it will proceed until after the Lunar New Year holiday.)

 

 

Normal stop (second graphic card slot), right) Corrupted - stop missing (first graphic card socket)

 

 

 

 

 

 

If the stopper has any spare parts, replacement is relatively simple and it's not easy to put the stopper up, as shown below. The stopper won't come out easily. It's better to get a replacement accessory from the manufacturer and replace it rather than the stopper up. It's easy to attach, but you can fit it well into the hole and insert it like Lego.

 

 

Graphics Card Slot Stopper Corruption

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below is a picture of a latching replacement. This is my first time removing a latching on my motherboard, so it took me 20 minutes to remove it. It took me less than a minute to remove the latching for 20 minutes. If the board was my board, I would have used it without stopping - without holding the graphics card in place - and forcefully removed the latching.

 

 

 

 

Since it's your main board, it took some time to remove it because I was carefully working on whether the latch would break while disassembling it or not. Personally, there is no problem with using the computer right away even if there is no stopper, so I think the A/S center will request (order) a replacement accessory (clasp) and replace it slowly. (Free or paid provision, some places may say they don't have an accessory.)

 

 

Moving the second stop to the first

 

 

 

 

 

 

We don't usually get this part repaired. Even if you have repaired it at risk, it is not easy to charge for repairs, and if the board is stamped while removing the clasp, or if the graphic card slot or clasp is damaged, the compensation cost is higher than the repair cost, so if you don't have to fix it, you won't get it. We recommend that you get accessories from the manufacturer's service center and put them in. (Because different motherboard manufacturers have slightly different clasp shapes, they may be less compatible with other manufacturers/models.)

 

 

 

 

 

If you stock the board at the after-sales service center, the service center will repair it and send it to you. "There are many cases where it is considered free of charge," but even during the free warranty period, there may be some places that receive repair costs "for the damaged part due to user negligence." I think a service center that provides free service is a good service (favor) and a service center that provides paid service due to consumer negligence (damage) should be considered as the default. Although the clasp was not damaged, some manufacturers refused to repair it for a fee because of user negligence (such as accessory damage or substrate scratch or corrosion).

 

 

 

I think the damage to the clasp is a partial repair that can be handled at the discretion of the staff in charge. If you bring it to a local computer repair shop, if you are not the company that purchased the computer, of course, you will be charged for the repair. Even if you bought the main body, parts that were damaged due to consumer negligence are usually treated for a fee. I would appreciate it if it was repaired free of charge, and I don't think you should be criticized for doing it for a fee. If you went to a local computer store for repair purposes without purchasing a computer, many owners would say that you can use it because there is no problem with using the computer, and there are many places that do not repair only the clasp as above due to the problem of "damage and compensation or warranty of the main board in the disassembly process".

 

 

 

 

 

The computer above has a two-pan air-cooler, and disassembling and reassembling high-end thick graphics cards is a task that takes approximately an hour. If it is not pre-arranged due to self-assembly, it is even more difficult to get a repair request. This is because we don't know what other problems will be encountered during self-assembly.



The only problem that comes to mind is the fact that the customer self-assembled the computers above. "Graphics card clasp damage, Front panel line PowerLED + pin plastic damage pin exposure, Intermittent CPU failure (initial failure => A/S agent), Cable not organized, CPU cooler needs to be disassembled and reassembled after disassembling, Expensive Thick Graphics Card (Be careful when disassembling and storing, check the state of scratch on the backplate), Mainboard Graphics Card Part board Scratch, etc. This is a work that takes several times more time to assemble than new board boards, so depending on the circumstances, there may be companies that do not accept self-assembly failures.

 

 

 

 

When the computer was in stock, other customers were with us, so it wasn't a problem that would be solved immediately when we registered, but we decided to check and contact you when we found the cause. If you had asked me to check from beginning to end until you found the cause on your own computer, I think I would have said that it would be difficult to work on your own like that.

 

 

 

 

It took me a long day to find the cause of the intermittent malfunction of the above computer. I replaced and installed the CPU more than ten times while replacing the compatible motherboard. In this case, it's difficult to check and take it right away. It's because I'm stuck with one thing and haven't received any other work or guests. When it comes to refitting the CPU, no matter how skilled you are, you should always work with it carefully/carefully. (Like the moment a rifle fires up, hold your breath and mount it.)

 

 

 

 

This kind of random repair (= defective) is chaotic even if only one unit comes in a week, and it's hard to find the cause of the failure, but it's distracting because the computer has to be spread out in one store. It keeps bothering me because I have to store it in a disassembled state until the service center checks/replaces a defective CPU. Also, is the CPU that has been replaced normal? Need to test again!

 

 

​​

 

 

 

 

(Tip) Graphic card stopper-How to remove the clasp - You can remove the clasp by opening the fixed shaft.

 

How to remove the clasp on the graphics card

 

 

 

 

 

The motherboard below is from ASROCK B250M Pro4. It's an old graphics card clasp. The clasp on the first graphics card is broken, and slot 2 is still alive. I removed the stopper on the second graphics card slot and put it back into the first slot.

 

 

 

 

I'm looking at the structure of the broken graphic card clasp. The clasp also has a jaw in the socket.

 

This mainboard is my mainboard, so I pulled it off the rail by tilting it, but when it's stuck like this, the plastic is weak and can break.

 

I don't think it'll be easy to remove it without a trick. It's not difficult to wear it the other way around. You can push it in.

 

 

I didn't know how to disassemble it, so I tilted it and removed it from the rail, but I think it's okay to separate it back by applying proper force to this part, considering that there is a jaw caught in the middle of the rail.

 

 

 




 

In the first slot, you can slide it in from behind the rail during the previous installation.

댓글

이 블로그의 인기 게시물

성우모바일 - 체리 11.6 (CHERRY 11.6) - SM-W910CN

일단은 C드라이브가 삼성 BWBD3R이라는 eMMC 하드디스크가 장착되어 있는데 느리기도 느리지만, 문제는 용량이 너무 작은 걸 넣어놔서  30기가 거의 다 찬 상태로 내방하신 고객님입니다. 초창기 설치된 윈도우10에서 최신 윈도우10 업데이트 진행되면서 더욱 용량은 부족해지고 기기의 하드웨어적인 상태도 좋지 않아서 그래픽, 무선랜카드, 터치 기능이 됐다가 안됐다가 하는 증상이 있었습니다. 결국 윈도우를 재설치한 다음에도 화면이 자꾸 죽는 상태로 변해서 난감했습니다. 화면 출력이 이렇게 좁아지기도 하고요. 드라이버 문제가 있다고 알림창이 뜨기도 합니다. 화면이 먹통될 때가 있는데 중간에 네모 박스 형태로 화면이 깨지고 화면을 리셋 시켜도 (다른 창, 바탕화면 보기 등) 네모가 사라지지 않고 재부팅 후에 없어지네요. 속도가 느려서 맥노트북 만큼 비용을 높게 잡아야 작업이 가능할 거 같은데 워낙에 저가형으로 풀린 노트북이라서 또, 비용을 많이 받기도 어렵고 홈페이지 드라이버 지원도 일반적인 방법으로 설치가 안되고 드라이버를 개별적으로 폴더를 지정해서 일일이 잡아줘야하는 불편함이 있었습니다. 화면 밝기 등을 조절할 수 있는 유틸리티는  제가 못 찾은 건지는 모르겠습니다만 결국은 설치를 못 해드리고 출고했습니다. 여러므로 골치아프고 시간 오래 걸리는 계륵 같은 노트북이였습니다. 그나마 윈도우10 RS5 버전을 설치하고나서 약간의 증상은 호전됐지만 사용 중에 화면이 검게 변한다던지 하는 증상은 없어지지 않았습니다.  eMMC 하드디스크가 어느 정도 사용하다보면, 굉장히 느려져서 일반적인 사무용도로도 사용하기가 어렵지 않을까 싶은 노트북입니다. 윈도우는 64비트만 설치 가능했고 메모리도 2기가 ...

인텔 CPU 쿨러 고정핀 제거 및 교체 방법

구형 인텔 쿨러입니다.  메인보드에 장착할 때, 무조건 밀어넣으면서 하단의 고정핀이 파손된 상태인데요.  이렇게 고정핀의 방향을 푸는 방향으로 돌려놓고 락커를 풀어주는 과정입니다.  뒷 부분에 락킹된 플라스틱 부위가 보이는데요. 이 부분을 날카로운 핀셋등으로 제쳐줍니다.  저는 손톱 가위를 사용했는데요. 날카로운 걸 사용하기 때문에 손에 찔리지 않도록 조심해서 살살 들어줍니다.  잠김이 해제되면서 분해할 수 있습니다. 너무 힘을 써서 제껴버리면 플라스틱이 파손될 수 있으니 휘지 않도록 적당한 힘으로 ... 고정핀이 부러진 고정핀을 빼고  새로운 고정핀으로 갈아 끼워줍니다.  사진 찍으면서 조립하는 게 아직도 쉽지 않아서  끼우는 과정은 생략이 됐는데요. 역순으로 조립한다는 생각으로 끼우시면 됩니다.  구글도 블로그가 있어서 처음으로 활용해서 글을 써보는데요. 국산 블로그의 웹에디터보다 기능이 좀 부족해서 황량해보이는데요. 적응하는데 시간이 조금 걸릴 듯 보이네요. ^^ CPU 쿨러가 제대로 장착되지 않은 컴퓨터입니다. 서멀이 제대로 펼쳐지지 않았고 공간이 있는 부분은 먼지인지 그을음인지? 검은색으로 변했습니다.  CPU 쿨러 고정핀 파손

V720-E.AH20K LG일체형PC SSD 업그레이드

V720-E.AH20K LG일체형PC SSD 업그레이드 2013년 11월 제조 제품인데요.  속도가 느려서 SSD 업그레이드를 위해서 내방해주셨습니다.  뒷면에는 TV 안테나선 연결코드와 HDMI 입력 포트가 있는 것이 신기했습니다.  요즘은 TV 안테나선을 잘 안쓰고 일체형PC 모니터는 거의 출력만 가능했는데 이 모델은 입력도 가능해서 놀라웠습니다.  내부의 부품이 고장났을 때, 모니터로도 쓸 수 있는 제품이니깐 활용도가 높겠습니다.  하판을 뜯어내고, 메인보드를 들어내야하는 모델이라서  일반적인 경우보다는 조금 더 손이 많이 가는 작업입니다.  연식이 오래된 컴퓨터를 건드리기 조심스럽기도 하고요. (연식이 오래되면, 긁어서 부스럼 만드는 격) 조심 스럽게 메인보드를 들어내니 하드디스크가 눈에 보이네요.  하드디스크를 조심스럽게 제거하고 SSD로 교체해줍니다.  다시 메인보드를 덮어주고  재조립을 마칩니다.  윈도우10 설치과정에서 SSD가 정상적으로 잘 잡혔나 확인해봤습니다.  250기가 정상적으로 인식이 됩니다.  윈도우10 정품 설치를 마쳤습니다.  2019년 초에 작업한 컴퓨터라서 자세히는 기억이 안납니다만  CPU 온도가 높은 것과 낮은 사진이 찍혀있는 걸 봐서는  아마도 일체형 PC 내부 청소 (서멀구리스 재도포) 작업도 했었던 거 같습니다.  내부 청소하는 사진은 별도로 안 찍었나는 확인할 수 있는 자료는 없네요. [ 노트북의 사양 ] 인텔 팬티엄 2020M (2.4GHz) 메모리 4기가  그래픽 인텔 HD 그래픽 파워 19V, 시디롬 DVR 멀티 ...